Mick Burke

Ever so often, an ordinary person gets extraordinary callings and becomes a hero. It is sad that, when such persons die in pursuit of that calling, they are rarely recognised as heroes. The world only recognises people who are "successful" as heroes.

Mount Everest has had many unsung heroes. In fact, the real heroes on that mountain are the ones which are found in the footnotes. I want to introduce you to another such man. A man, who responded to his soul.

The year was 1975. Chris Bonnigton led yet another expedition up the phenomenal South West face of Mount Everest, this time determined to "succeed". He had stalwarts in his team...Peter Boardman, Doug Scott, Dougal Hanston...all giants in the field of mountaineering. The South West face of Everest was yet unclimbed and it looked like September 1975 would do it. Bonnigton coined his famous phrase "Think High, Sleep low", emphasising to his members that they must avoid the ill-effects of high altitude and remain fit for a summit bid.

There was one more man who accompanied this well-funded, much touted, expedition. A lesser known, almost unknown man of the name of Mick Burke. A small-time photographer who was a last-minute choice of Bonnigton when his main photographer took ill. Mick Burke was a nobody. He was broke and Bonnigton's offer was too good to resist. He had a family which loved him. He was contracted to photograph the expedition on the lower and mid-slopes of the mountain, the understanding being that the summiteers would take their own photographs when on the summit.

Mick Burke was no mountain man. He was a poor man in need of urgent of urgent money. He wanted to send his daughter to a particular university and didn't have the money. And he jumped on this offer.

Burke did a good job. He was a good photographer, after all. The expedition proceeded and camped near the rock band on the south west face of Everest. Dougal Hanston and Doug Scott left the next day and made the first attempt. And they succeeded. The first Britisher had climbed Mount Everest. Also, a new south west face route had been established.

Mick Burke's work was effectively over. He sat in the camp under the rock band and yearned to go home. He thought how he would give his daughter a good education.

The next day, Peter Boardman and Pertemba made a summit attempt. It was misty and foggy, but they wanted to try. Such was the benevolence of the goddess that they succeeded too. However, on their way back, just a 1000 feet down from the summit, Peter Boardman and Pertemba saw a figure treading up toward the summit through the mist. As they approached him, they saw Mick Burke. Alone, in misty foggy weather, making a summit bid. They were shocked. This was not Mick's terrain. This was not what he was supposed to be doing. More importantly, THIS WAS NOT WHAT HE HAD EVER WANTED TO DO.

They passed Mick and asked him to come down with him. Mick Burke made the most important decision in his life...he said "No. I don't know why, but something told me last night that this is something I need to do". Peter Boardman was scared for Mick. But he was too exhausted to go back to the summit with Mick. He said he would wait where they then stood....wait for Mick to return from the summit so that he could take Mick down with him. Mick smiled and said "Thanks, I promise I wont make you wait till eternity".

Peter waited for 2 hours. Mick should have been back in 45 mins. But there was no sign of Mick Burke. Peter looked through the mist, it was already so thick that he couldn't see more than 2-3 feet. It was past 5 pm. It was dangerous to sit there. In Peter's words..."An eternity nearly passed...and Mick had said he would not make me wait till eternity". At 5:30 pm, Peter Boardman headed back to safety and the camp, alone.

They never found the photographer. The man who, till last night, was yearning to be back home. And what happened during that night which made him so foolhardy the next day ? What did he hear...what did he see.. that he forgot the joy on his daughter's face when she would welcome him home ? No one knows. Maybe only Mick knew.

Peter Boardman..."Mick promised me that he would make me wait till eternity. Maybe, eternity has not yet passed.. maybe he is still looking for me where I had promised to wait for him".

Mick Burke is found in footnotes in Everest books. Chris Bonnigton is found in the main chapters. Yet, Mick probably heard the mountain's call more clearly than Chris Bonnigton ever has.

I want to become one of these guys someday love. It will take that split second probably to choose death rather than life, like Mick Burke did. But, the call, when it comes, is impossible to defy.

-- Sandeep Chopra, 16 July, 2003